Eastern Snake-necked Turtle – Chelodina Longicollis

The Eastern snake neck or long neck turtle are found throughout southeastern Australia. Adults of this species are usually 20-24cm but can grow up to 28cm. Their life expectancy in captivity is anywhere from 30-40 years. It is a side-necked turtle, meaning that it bends its head sideways into its shell rather than pulling it directly back. The shell (carapace) is generally black in color, though some may be brown. It is broad and flattened with a deep medial groove.

Housing

Most adult turtles require a minimum of a 120cm long tank but bigger is better. The enclosure should be filled to approximately 2/3. It is necessary to supply a large enough tank to also include an area for your turtle to bask with its entire body to be fitted on this level. They must also be able to get onto this ramp easily and a sloping ramp at a suitable angle that is not abrasive is best. At a minimum, the water area or length of tank must be at least 2-3 times the length of the carapace.

Temperature and UV

Temperature is crucial for the well-being of Eastern snake-necked turtles. Water temperatures have been recommended to range between 18-24 degrees. A thermometer above and within the water is required alongside the thermostat to ensure proper temperatures. Out of the water a basking area temperature needs to be supplied at 28-34 degrees (a separate thermometer and thermostat is needed in this area).

All Australian turtles require adequate UV light to be provided. Appropriate UVB lighting will aid in Vitamin D3 production which is needed for Calcium metabolism. It is also thought that the UVB light can help with natural behaviour such as foraging and feeding. It is recommended that in addition to UV light provided artificially, natural UV provided by the sun is best and should be added into your weekly husbandry practice for around 30 minutes 2-3 times per week. In both the tank and outside it is important to remember that UV does not pass through glass or plastic and thus all covering needs to be removed to allow it to be effective. If taken outside, make sure not to leave your turtle unattended or in an enclosure where it could overheat as this can be deadly. In many cases it can be helpful to keep your turtle in shallow water when taken outside. Replace all UV lights every 6-12 months or when it is no longer effective based on a UV radiometer at the distance and strength required. The lights should be on for a period of 12 hours a day.

Water

As turtles spend most of their time in the water it is within reason to assume this is an integral component to good health. The optimal water temperature should sit between 18-24C maximum, depending on the species you are keeping. Most turtles live in much colder water than this, even in the tropical regions. In the summer you can switch the water heater off if you have one. Colder water temperatures will encourage basking and help prevent skin issues as well as illnesses associated with water quality problems. pH refers to acidity or alkalinity. A pH ranging from 7.2-7.6 is recommended. Hardness is measured in parts per million (this is achieved through dissolved salts), a harness of 140-210ppm is recommended this can be achieved by adding approximately 5 grams of aquarium salt to per litre of water. Filtration is needed continuously to maintain water quality and an external canister filter is usually the best option for this. The filter helps to remove nitrogenous waste. 20-25% water changes are still needed on a weekly or 2 weekly basis to ensure water quality remains healthy. Tap water should be allowed to settle for twelve hours to allow chlorines to dissipate before adding it to the system. Use a water conditioner when topping up tanks.

Weekly testing should be done for; Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate (waste products), as well as pH and water hardness.

Humidity

Humidity can become an issue if a solid top lid is used on your tank that will block air flow. This high humidity can cause respiratory issues. A mesh lid allows ventilation and stops animals escaping as well as stopping predators entering the tank.

Diet

Diet should be as varied as possible. Generally, long neck turtles are predominantly carnivorous. Their main diet is made up of a mix of insects such as crickets, woodies, moths and flies with an occasional worm. Earthworms are an excellent source of vitamin A. It is not recommended to feed raw meat or pet food as this will affect the balance of the diet and can be harmful.

Fish such as gudgeons (feeder fish) and whitebait, freshwater snails, prawns and yabbies, can also be offered but need to be soaked in water to leach the salt out and have their heads, spikes and shells removed.

Blood worms, turtle blocks/pellets or mealworms should only be fed occasionally and as part of a varied diet.

Australian turtles generally need to be submerged in water to feed and defecate. Make sure you do not overfeed your turtle and be sure that you don’t leave anything in the water they should not eat as they are opportunistic. The amount of food to be offered for an adult turtle should be the size of their head approximately 1-2 x per week and every 2 days for juveniles. Suitable plants should always be provided in the tank.

A Calcium supplement is recommended if they are not consuming whole fish and even if they are, calcium blocks have added benefits.

Foods that are frozen have some of their nutrients and vitamins destroyed so it is best to offer fresh food where possible.

Any food not eaten should be removed after a couple of hours to minimize nitrogenous waste product build up in the water.

As an alternative they can be fed in a separate enclosure or container with water taken from the tank.

Hibernation

Turtles housed indoors will not hibernate if the water temperature is kept at a moderate constant temperature. This will cause them to grow quicker than if hibernation occurs. When the room temp and the water temp are allowed to fall in winter, the turtle will become lethargic and then hibernate.

When this occurs, they should not be disturbed or fed. Hibernation can be disastrous for young turtles because they do not have enough body fat to supply their needs over winter. It is far safer to keep the water temp at an optimal level using a heater, so they remain active for at least the first year or so.

Substrates

Substrate is not always needed, and it is easier to keep the tank clean without it. However, larger river stones are an appropriate and attractive option if substrate is desired. To this, 20 grams per litre of calgrit (turtle grit) should be added. Avoid substrates like small pebbles or sand as the waste particles cling to the edges of these and can raise the nitrogen levels.

Equipment

Essential equipment includes thermometers or a temperature gun for monitoring temperature. Temperature guns are particularly valuable and should be used regularly to ensure the setup is performing correctly at the basking site. Tweezers for feeding different sized insects. Suitable water testing kits should be used regularly.

Records

Maintain regular records, including acquisition details, weight, food items, refusals, medications, and any instances of illness or injury. This information can be invaluable if veterinary care is ever required and provides a valuable reference as your turtle grows.

Veterinary Care

In the case of veterinary care, we recommend North Richmond Vet Hospital on phone number 4571 2042. If you need to transport your turtle to the vet, use a container with air holes to allow good ventilation. The turtle should be lightly wrapped in slightly damp, not saturated, open weave rags, towels or hessian bags.  Never use moistened pillowcases, as the tight weave does not allow for easy breathing when wet. A 100ml sample of the tank water should be also taken in for evaluation.

Further Learning

Consider reading books like ‘Keeping long-neck turtles’ for further insights into caring for these reptiles.

Owning and caring for long-neck turtles can be a rewarding and long-term commitment, as these turtles can live for decades. Congratulations on welcoming a new family member into your home, and we hope you enjoy the journey of learning and watching them grow.