Centralian Python – Morelia Bredli

The Centralian or Morelia bredli occur in the mountains of the southern Northern Territory. They can grow up to 3 metres in length but are generally 1.5 to 1.8 metres in captivity. The colour pattern consists of a brown to reddish ground color with a highly variable pattern of pale intrusions. There are normally black borders around the intrusions that become more extensive around the tail. Their docile nature makes them a favoured choice for first-time python owners. It’s important to note that they should be kept individually, rather than in pairs or groups.

Housing

Hatchlings should be housed in secure enclosures suitable for their size. We recommend the hatchling kit available at Reptile House, which includes a well-ventilated enclosure, a heat mat, a thermostat, a thermometer, a water bowl, a hide box, feeding tweezers, and a snake hook. This setup is ideal for the first 12-18 months, after which the snake should be transitioned to an adult enclosure. Subadults and adults should be kept in a 4ft or 5ft enclosure to allow for a proper temperature gradient.

Temperature

Temperature is crucial for the well-being of Centralian Pythons. For adults, maintain a temperature range of 32-34 degrees Celsius in the warm end and as low as 17 degrees Celsius in the cooler end. Hatchlings prefer a consistent hot spot 24 hours a day until they are 18 months old. A slight night temperature drop is acceptable at this stage.

Handling

After bringing your new snake home, it’s best to avoid handling it for a couple of weeks, especially until it has settled and established a feeding routine. Once the snake has adapted, you can start short handling sessions lasting 10-15 minutes. Avoid handling your python for a few days after feeding. Be aware that your snake might become irritable when entering a shedding cycle, particularly when their eyes turn milky. To handle them safely, use a hatchling snake hook when removing them from their enclosure.  It’s best not to disturb a snake while it’s in its hide unless necessary.

Humidity

Humidity is generally not a significant concern, except during shedding cycles. Lightly mist the enclosure to increase humidity during these times, ensuring it dries out within a day or so to prevent bacterial and fungal growth. If the humidity remains consistently high, check the enclosure’s ventilation.

Diet

Mice and Rats are a complete food source and are the preferred food item for the entirety of their lives. A complete range of rodents are available from Reptile House. Other food items such as quail and chicken are rarely needed but can be used as an alternate prey item in adults. Hatchlings should be fed weekly, and the prey size should be increased once you can no longer see the lump in their body after they swallow it. Sub adults and adults can be fed weekly or fortnightly depending on body condition.

A snake will not feed when stressed. If it is handled too much before settling into its new home or the temperature gradient is not correct, feeding problems can begin. Limit the amount of handling time until your new snake is feeding well. You should allow your python at least a week to settle in before attempting feeding. Hatchlings are best fed during the early hours of the night. It’s best not to handle the snake before feeding. Introduce the food near the nose of your snake. Offer the food headfirst so the hatchling can bite straight onto the head of the prey. Once the snake grabs and wraps on the rodent gently back away and leave the snake alone to eat.

Substrates

The choice of substrate is a matter of personal preference, but we recommend options like Chipsi, Aspen bedding, Critters Comfort, or even butcher’s paper.

Water Bowl

Select a heavy, stable water bowl that won’t tip over while the snake moves around at night. Place it in the cooler end of the enclosure. Ensure the bowl is large enough for the snake to soak itself but avoid overfilling it to prevent spillage if the snake submerges.

Hide Boxes

Offer hide boxes, which can be simple plastic hides or more decorative options that resemble rocks, tree trunks, skulls, or caves. Place hides in both the warm and cool ends of the enclosure, giving your snake the choice to hide in a warmer or cooler area.

Equipment

Essential equipment includes thermometers or a temperature gun for monitoring temperature. Temperature guns are particularly valuable and should be used regularly to ensure the setup is performing correctly. Additionally, consider keeping probes, mouth-opening kits, tweezers, and snake hooks of various sizes to handle different snake sizes. Use reptile-specific cleaning and disinfecting products such as F10SC and clean the enclosure on non-feeding days during daylight to minimize stress.

Records

Maintain regular records, including acquisition details, weight, shedding events, food items, refusals, medications, and any instances of illness or injury. This information can be invaluable if veterinary care is ever required and provides a valuable reference as your snake grows.

Veterinary Care

In the case of veterinary care, we recommend North Richmond Vet Hospital on phone number 4571 2042.

Further Learning

Consider reading books like ‘The Complete Carpet Python Book’ and ‘Keeping and breeding Australian Pythons’ for further insights into caring for these reptiles.

Owning and caring for Centralian Pythons can be a rewarding and long-term commitment, as these snakes can live for over 20 years. Congratulations on welcoming a new family member into your home, and we hope you enjoy the journey of learning and watching them grow.