Central Bearded Dragon – Pogona Vitticeps

Central bearded dragons also known as the inland bearded dragon, is a species of agamid lizard found in a wide range of arid to semiarid regions of eastern and central Australia. Adults of this species can measure up to 50 centimetres in length and on average, their life expectancy ranges from 9-12 years. Bearded dragons vary widely in colour, including brown, reddish-brown, red, yellow, white and orange. It is important to house bearded dragons individually, as they can inflict severe damage to each other, resulting in loss of limbs and even death.

Housing

The size of your enclosure will be dictated by how many Central Bearded Dragons you are housing. Hatchlings can be housed in 2ft enclosures, a single adult in a 4ft enclosure. Housing two Central dragons together can be tricky though as you will generally find that one will assert dominance over the other which can result in life threatening issues, such as the subordinate ceasing to eat. We recommend that you choose either to house one or three or more together to avoid this occurring. We also recommend upgrading your central bearded dragon to a 150cm enclosure if housing three or more adults together. Central bearded dragons are typically social lizards that enjoy a community environment. The vivarium should be placed in a safe location away from drafts, heat and direct sunlight to avoid temperature changes. In the wild, most dragons spend their time in bushes, trees or basking on rocks. If they get too hot, they will sometimes burrow underground to seek protection. A captive enclosure must offer these facilities.

Temperature and UV

Temperature and UVB are crucial for the well-being of bearded dragons. It is recommended that you supply a day-night cycle for your bearded dragon of 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness but adjusting this cycle to match natural cycles is also possible and may contribute to more natural behaviour. This day-night cycle is also essential for normal mental health. The hot basking area end should be heated with a thermostatically controlled reflector globe (reptile specific flood lamp or reptile specific spotlight) to create a basking temperature of 40-45C. To avoid thermal burns, the basking lamp should not be positioned too close to your lizard, and the basking area should be as large as your bearded dragon, so the entire body heats up evenly with no pinpoint of excessive heat. The cool end of the enclosure should be around 20-24C to allow your dragon to escape the heat if desired. Overnight temperatures should not fall below 20C at the hot end of the cage. The use of weaker ceramic heat lamps may be required to achieve this.  A digital thermometer or infrared temp gun can be used to monitor temperature to make sure that it is not too hot for the dragon when setting up the enclosure, both available from Reptile House.

Bearded dragons have strict requirements concerning UVB light supplementation as they rely on UVB light rays to be able to produce vitamin D3 in their skin adequately. Vitamin D3 is essential for proper calcium metabolism in dragons and to help prevent secondary nutritional hyperparathyroidism, also known as metabolic bone disease. UVB light can be provided by artificial ‘UV-lights’; however, there is no substitute for natural unfiltered sunlight, and it is recommended that dragons should receive sunlight for 20-30-minute periods at least 2-3 times a week. When doing this, ensure the dragon is in an escape-proof/predator-proof cage. Most artificial UV sources designed for reptiles need to be placed at a minimum distance from the reptile. Most manufacturers list these requirements on their packaging or websites. Use at least a 10.0 UVB lamp. Furthermore, the effective UVB emission lifespan of these lights is usually in the vicinity of 6-12 months, so the manufacture’s guidelines need to be followed and globes replaced as required to ensure the correct levels of UVB are maintained.

Handling

After bringing your new bearded dragon home, it’s best to avoid handling it for a couple of weeks, especially until it has settled and established a feeding routine. Once the dragon has adapted, you can start short handling sessions lasting 10-15 minutes. Most dragons can become very used to being handled, but over handling can be stressful. When handling beaded dragons, support the whole body from underneath, particularly the fore and hind limbs. Avoid squeezing them or holding them too tightly. Be wary of dragons running over your shoulder as they can jump and cause injury.

Humidity

Humidity is generally not a significant concern, except during shedding cycles. Lightly mist the enclosure to increase humidity during these times, ensuring it dries out within a day or so to prevent bacterial and fungal growth. If the humidity remains consistently high, check the enclosure’s ventilation.

Diet

Most bearded dragons are omnivorous, which means they eat both plant and insects. They should be fed a variety of insects (crickets, roaches, moths, silkworms, beetles and black soldier fly larvae) which can be rotated throughout their feeding schedule. You can also provide a mixture of leafy salad greens and vegetables such as dandelion, endive, romaine, spring mix, mustard greens, microgreens, beetroot tops, Asian greens, collard greens carrots, parsley, basil, squash, zucchini and capsicum. Only offer a small amount of fruit occasionally such as blueberries or raspberries.

The insects can be lightly dusted 2-3 times per week with a calcium powder that does NOT contain Vitamin D or phosphorus and given immediately. This will aid in maintaining the ideal calcium-phosphorus balance of approximately 2:1

Hatchlings less than 2 months of age should be fed a small number of insects two to three times per day and offered finely chopped mixture of the greens and veggies listed above. They may not always eat this but many will enjoy the variety.

Juveniles less than 4 months of age can be offered 70 % insects (the insect’s size should be less than the width of the dragon’s head) and 30% mixed chopped up vegetables.

Bearded Dragons from 4 months of age to adulthood can be fed mixed plant matter daily and mixed insects 1-2 times per week (maximum 10-15). It is essential not to leave any uneaten insects in your dragons’ enclosure as these can cause serious harm to them. It, therefore, may be advisable to feed them insects in a separate feeding enclosure. It is crucial to monitor your dragons’ weight to track their growth rate but also to reduce the risk of your dragon becoming obese.

There are a range of dry foods and gel mixes such as the Fuzzy Fox range that offer a complete meal source and can be used in conjunction with all of the above and/or as meal replacements.

It is recommended to offer food in the mornings so that digestion occurs during the warmest part of the day. Multivitamin powder can be sprinkled on the vegetables once every two weeks.

Brumation

During the cooler months, wild bearded dragons will often slow their metabolism down in response to the lower temperatures, shorter day length and decreased available food and water. Despite a more controlled environment in captivity, millions of years of instinct can still take over and cause your dragon to enter this slowed state. During this period, your dragon may not eat, drink, defecate, or move for several weeks. They may bury themselves completely underground; go to the darkest coolest part of the enclosure becoming very unresponsive. A healthy dragon can safely undergo brumation but young dragons (under 12 months old) or those that are not in top physical condition should not be allowed to enter this state and you should seek veterinary advice if you are concerned.

Substrates

There are many suitable substrates, and they all have their good and bad properties. Newspaper, butchers’ paper and paper towel are easy to clean, pose no risk for obstruction but do not allow for digging or enrichment and look unnatural. Washed playground sand or desert sand is acceptable, and although many recommend against it because of fear of impaction, this usually only occurs as a result of underlying diseases or improper husbandry predisposing to this problem and not a substrate issue in itself. A specially designed reptile carpet is a good option, although it can be challenging to clean. Astroturf or artificial grasses can fray with the ends being ingested causing obstructions or can get wrapped around digits causing damage so to need to be used with caution. It is suggested to avoid calci-sand, gravel, corncob, pea gravel, crushed walnut and shavings made of pine or cedar in the enclosure.

Water Bowl

Select a heavy, stable water bowl that won’t tip over while the bearded dragon moves around. Place it in the cooler end of the enclosure.

Hide Boxes

Hides can be decorative options that resemble rocks, tree trunks, skulls, or caves. A place for your dragon to hide located on both the warm and cool end of the enclosure is imperative to minimise the risk of stress. These should be easy to remove so that you can check on your dragon as needed, and the furnishings should be cleaned regularly.

Equipment

Essential equipment includes thermometers or a temperature gun for monitoring temperature. Temperature guns are particularly valuable and should be used regularly to ensure the setup is performing correctly. Additionally, consider keeping mouth-opening kits and tweezers for feeding different insects. Use reptile-specific cleaning and disinfecting products such as F10SC and clean the enclosure during daylight to minimize stress.

Records

Maintain regular records, including acquisition details, weight, shedding events, food items, refusals, medications, and any instances of illness or injury. This information can be invaluable if veterinary care is ever required and provides a valuable reference as your dragon grows.

Veterinary Care

In the case of veterinary care, we recommend North Richmond Vet Hospital on phone number 4571 2042.

Further Learning

Consider reading books like ‘Keeping and breeding Australian Lizards’ and ‘Keeping Bearded Dragons’ for further insight into caring for these reptiles.

Owning and caring for bearded dragons can be a rewarding and long-term commitment, as these dragons can live for over 12 years. Congratulations on welcoming a new family member into your home, and we hope you enjoy the journey of learning and watching them grow.